Use the lug wrench to rotate each lug nut Ceramic Brake Pad clockwise until they are on absolutely tight.
Chatter, a high frequency rattle, results when the brake pad flutters on the rotor. This can be caused by the slop inherent in the system or because the rotor is not (or is no longer) balanced or is excessively rough.
Judder, a lower frequency noise, usually results from improper alignment of the pad and the rotor, where the faces are no longer in parallel, for example, when the pad material is starting to shear off the backing plate and flutters when pressed against the rotor.
(Wilwood and SBS are both now using the unique Nucap retention system that uses tiny hooks all over the face of the backing plate to grip the friction material that is molded on the plate with great pressure.)
Grab is the effect when the pad grabs the rotor unevenly. (This is still a major problem with carbon/carbon set-ups.)
Where do chatter, judder and grab come from, and how can brakepads help avoid them? The biggest problem with caliper brakes is that the braking face is out in the wind.
Road scuzz mixed with abraded brake pad material ends up plating the rotor with uneven blotches. In the extreme, these blotches can cause local overheating of the pad, destroying it, which, in turn, causes local overheating of the rotor, which causes crazing, which leads to junked rotors.
Brake pads that transfer a film of friction material to the rotor help reduce the problem for high temperature, track brake systems.
But transfer film pads don?t work for street applications because you just can't get street brakes hot enough to bed them in properly and get the film to transfer.
Even if you can bed them properly the pads and rotors don't get hot enough in regular street use for the filmed rotor to demonstrate the advantages of the process.
Step 15: Repeat steps 3-15 on the rear or front brakes.
If you decide to start with the rear brakepads first, repeat the same process on the front ones or vice versa.
Step 16: Test the brakes.
Start the car and pump the brake about 10 times while it's in park to make sure the brake pads are placed in correctly.
After you've done this, drive the car slowly at about five or 10 mph on a residential street and brake normally. Repeat this process at higher speeds. If it's responding well at 40-45 mph, you should be good to go.
Key Features:
Noise dampening steel formulation
Molybdenum additive for high temperature strength and thermal crack resistance
Performance design — Direct OE replacement
Unidirectional vanes eliminate the need for left and right side rotors
OE style vane design combined with increased heat capacity dramatically improves brake pad and rotor life
Improves wet weather brake performance
Effectively removes gas and wear debris
Visual wear indicator. Rotors should be replaced when slots are worn down and no longer visible
All rotors are finished with a GEOMET® coating that protects both the internal and external Brake Pad Manufacturer rotor surfaces from rust and corrosion